Brazil — Wildlife of the Pantanal

Eleven days in the Brazilian Pantanal with ORYX Photo Tours, led by Dale Morris. August 2019 — dry season, when the water recedes and everything concentrates along the rivers. Cuiabá to Pousada Piuval, then the Claro River, then five days on a houseboat searching for jaguar.

Piuval — The Northern Pantanal

First full day out of Cuiabá. Pousada Piuval — a working cattle ranch, 15,000 acres of forest, swamp, and savanna. A hyacinth macaw peering out of a tree cavity. The largest parrot in the world.

A capuchin monkey on a branch, staring down at us.

A ferruginous pygmy-owl in the warm afternoon light.

The Claro River

At dusk, a caiman broke the surface of water so still it held the entire pink sky. Just the eyes and the ridge of the skull.

The Houseboat — Searching for Jaguar

Five days on the Jacaré houseboat. Early morning and late afternoon, cruising the riverbanks.

A Pantaneiro cowboy drove his herd through the dust, one arm raised, horse decorated with red tassels.

Eighth day. The boats had been cruising for hours when the guides spotted movement. A male jaguar, enormous, lying on the bank. He yawned — or snarled — and the full architecture of those jaws became visible. Pantanal jaguars are the largest in the world, up to 50% heavier than their Amazonian relatives.

Same day. A giant river otter surfaced with a fish in its hands. Seven feet long, thirty kilograms. It ate the fish facing us.

The Last Morning

Heading back toward Cuiabá. A capybara floating in the river, just its nose and eyes above the waterline.

A water buffalo in the shallows, backlit by morning sun, insects catching the light around its head.